A rapid passage from Port Haliguen in windy conditions under a typical Breton ‘grain’ or rain shower brought me to Pornichet, in company with a French boat, sailed by friends Philippe and Christine, who had suggested a trip up to Nantes while we were in Port Haliguen.
With a spring flood lasting around eight hours, it’s a very easy matter to dawdle one’s way up the river, admiring the curious mix of industrial and rural landscapes which characterise the area – the shipbuilding yards at St. Nazaire, the marshy flatlands, full of different sorts of birds, the old port of Paimboeuf where ships took on cargo and crew before leaving for foreign parts, and of course the enormous suspension bridge at St Nazaire and the slightly smaller one outside Nantes.
The new pontoon at Chantenay, called the ‘Ponton Belem’ after the square-rigger which is often there, makes arriving in Nantes very easy towards the end of the tide. Still incomplete, the pontoon consists of about six places alongside (more if the ‘Belem’ is away); rafting up would be quite interesting mid-tide!
Nantes, the former capital of Brittany, has a culture all of its own, with works of art on public display even on the way up the river (see photos). Just opposite the pontoon are the old Chantiers Navals where the ‘Machines de l’Ile’ project is based, with a huge carousel and mechanical elephant which squirts water from its trunk! In the town itself are many other quirky sights, as well as some very impressive buildings, notably the Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne and the cathedral.
After a few days of quite strong SW wind, there seemed to be a window for leaving, so we made our way down the river early in the morning against the end of the flood tide, to maximise the time available to clear the estuary. Just after leaving Nantes we met a huge bulk carrier being manoeuvred by three tugs, which more or less filled up the river – the pilot book warns that commercial traffic is the major problem on the river.
Passage downriver is very swift as the ebb cuts in, and we arrived at Paimboeuf in good time, which was just as well given the 15-20 wind blowing directly up the estuary! The combination of wind over tide made for a very bumpy ride out under the bridge and down the channel, and I was glad to be able to bear away at Le Grand Charpentier and set sail on a long fetch back up to Port Haliguen. The 85 mile trip took twelve hours altogether, an average of 7 knots! I arrived back at the anchorage on the edge of Quiberon Bay to find Arthur and Margaret Meech in residence in ‘Noella’, who visited for strawberries and a glass of wine.
A couple of days here to get organised, and then head northwest again in what promises to be even better weather, and with the great advantage of neap tides to come...
Steve Fraser
