The Sargent’s annual trip to St. Mawes (Anthony, Christina and Anthony’s children Rosie and Annalise)
We were spotted packing our dinghy up for the road a month ago by a club member, and they suggested that we wrote up our sailing trip to Cornwall when we got back. So here we are and this is what we did:
Being eccentric and not having a yacht, we like to tow a tender behind our 16 foot day boat (Marine Tutor). We then anchor at various places to go ashore for picnics and exploration. Accordingly, the packing up of the boat for the road was far from a simple matter as there was the small issue of putting the tender on top of the dinghy without taking all the paint and varnish off! Christina came up with the idea of our camping duvet. This worked well and after a few attempts the tender rested on it comfortably and safely – turtle side up. A couple of hours and quite a few shock cords later we were ready to depart for our holiday.
We stay at a very traditional B&B in St. Mawes. The owners are fully conversant with sailing and are happy to accommodate our wet clothes on occasions. In previous years these occasions have been daily! However this year we had superb weather with light to medium airs. We shipped no water in a week and the crew remained dry and warm. Christina was especially pleased as she feels the cold keenly!
We all like to go further afield sailing so on our first day with a nice force 2 – 3 south-westerly and warm sunshine, having de-roaded Blue Swallow, without further ado we set of for Gillan Harbour (see map) with tender in tow. Gillan lies just south of the Helford River and we love it because one of the beaches is small and quiet, backed by caves (ideal for the children!) and just 20 feet above lies soft, turfy grass. The distance is about 7.5 nautical miles from the Percuil River. About half way to the Helford River the wind backed to the south and we had to tack the rest of the way to Gillan. This was good education for Annalise, our youngest at 10 years of age, since in previous years she had been an unquestioning, passive crew but now she piped up: “Why can’t we just sail straight to Gillan Daddy?” About 2 ½ hours after leaving our mooring we were peacefully at anchor near a large yacht. The girls gathered together the picnic stuff whilst I made things shipshape. Fortunately the tender takes four people and some gear in one load, so I was soon rowing over submerged rocks to the beach. After the family picnic and a few ducks and drakes later, the wind was still in the south so our sail back to St. Mawes with a following wind was speedy. As we approached the mooring the wind in the estuary became light, and with wind against tide I should have dropped the mainsail first: I didn’t. I picked the mooring up at the first attempt but then of course a squall came and the boat sailed downwind, screwing the mooring round my hand and I finally had to let go. We headed off amongst the multitude of yachts where at an appropriate moment I dropped the mainsail. The wind then immediately dropped and the tide seemed more ferocious! After twenty minutes of weaving between yachts with inordinately long bowsprits we were safely on the mooring and all thinking about supper! I made the resolution to pick up the mooring “by the book” on the morrow.
Day two dawned; we were setting off for Turnaware Point down the Carrick Roads. It turned out to be a very “calm” day; we never even reached Mylor Bridge! After two hours the wind got up a bit and we sailed across to St. Just in Roseland harbour where we got becalmed again! We finally extricated ourselves from the various yachts and headed back. The wind got up just a little in the Percuil River so we dropped the mainsail and approached our mooring in St. Mawes under jib alone.
We decided to reward ourselves with a visit to St. Mawes Sailing Club and were recognised by a few faces which was nice! The day was rounded off with a visit to The Rising Sun which is a local pub giving good value for money. We all slept soundly that night. The next day greeted us with a force 2 south westerly wind and we set off for the Helford River. We always use the “axe” as a landmark – basically an axe-shaped landmark on the hillside, bearing 242 degrees. Even though Annalise insisted she had spotted a different “axe-type” landmark we could use! No, thank you I could already imagine the confusion this would cause! The wind, however, dropped again so the day turned into a sailing lesson for Christina. She spent nearly 3 hours on the helm and gained a lot in confidence. We sailed into Falmouth, to the top of the Carrick Roads and jibed round Black Rock several times. Annalise, ever confident, took the jib and Rosie relaxed. This time we picked up the St. Mawes mooring perfectly: we rounded into the wind 100 yards above the mooring and took the mainsail down, then ran down to the mooring on the jib alone ‘til near, released the jib and allowed the contrary tide to slow us down. Christina missed the mooring again (despite her positive thinking) but Annalise picked it up in a timely and relaxed fashion and was pleased with herself – quite right, too! As we enjoyed the last of the sunshine on the slipway, a fisherman arrived and offered us four lovely mackerel! Knowing that we had a portable barbecue we accepted straight away and, once back at our B & B, set to task. The “instant” barbecue, however, was not instant at all! Our efforts to cook the mackerel would have made a scout leader proud but it wasn’t to be – much to Christina’s disappointment who had never eaten freshly caught mackerel. We were all pretty dispirited but help came in the way of some friends whose son had noticed our predicament, and obviously mentioned it to his mother Maria! Maria had cooked fish pie for a dinner party the same day and invited us to share it with her. The evening was saved with a lovely meal in good company – how lucky we were! The mackerel? Well, let’s just say the family also owns a Spoodle who spotted it and couldn’t believe his luck! He stole the lot.
Wednesday turned out to be a great day with a good wind for going up the Helford River – north-west, variable force 2 – 3. We worked the tide out carefully: it was flooding until 2.10pm taking us in and then ebbing later to sail home. We sailed on a lovely reach but naughty Anthony sailed inside the August Rocks buoy! We had about 3’ 6” under us and sailed on a raised centreboard. Going off on a broad reach we manoeuvred her carefully towards clear water. We definitely won’t do that again as we don’t know the waters that well! We subsequently sailed straight into the river mouth passing many moored yachts. After 25 minutes or so of tacking up the river a private beach opposite Helford Village looked inviting, and we decided to anchor there. In a flash we had anchored in fairly deep water, rowed our tender to the beach and were basking in warm sunshine. We had however left the rudder down so I swam back to rectify this. Shortly after, a second trip to Blue Swallow was needed since the girls had forgotten some things…women! For this purpose Annalise had a rowing lesson, and Rosie and Christina wiled away the time in the water looking for exciting finds. All too soon we had to pack up, as it was a lengthy sail back. The wind on the return trip was rather variable but as calculated we had a fair tide. Annalise went on the helm and Rosie was considering it. Progress! 1 ½ hrs from Helford to Black Rock – not bad!
The next day was very warm if not to say hot! We all felt like a little break from sailing so spent the morning doing different things except Rosie who couldn’t resist going to the beach all day! Friends took her and she had a lovely time. Annalise and I caught up with some reading in the lovely B & B garden whilst Christina – ever energetic – decided to drive to St. Just In Roseland and walk to Messack Point. The church of St. Just In Roseland is actually rather fetching, situated in semi-subtropical gardens. And the first church she had ever seen offering complimentary tea and coffee! Messack Point did not disappoint and provide a lovely panoramic view across the St. Just In Roseland harbour, over to St. Anthony’s Head (St. Mawes just hidden around the corner) and across the Carrick Roads with just the mouth of the Helford River visible. In the afternoon, we gathered together and did a spanking close-hauled sail down the Carrick Roads to Turnaware Point. Memories of earlier trips there came back but there wasn’t time to linger and we eventually sailed back on a broad reach, with a north-westerly wind, force 3 – 4. It was racing night at St. Mawes Sailing Club so we all had an excellent and very good value for money supper there. We all slept heavily that night, having resolved to go on a longer sail the following day.
After our usual hearty, cooked breakfast we set off with a nice and steady force 2 – 3, the wind initially north-west then veering north-east. Approaching St. Anthony’s head we were glad to see its “jacket” (= scaffolding) gradually coming off, restoring it to its splendid, white beauty. We turned left and sailed north east along the Cornish coast and into Gerrans Bay with Port Scatho tucked around the corner. The wind lightened a little towards midday as we approached Gull Rock off Nare Head, sailing close-hauled by that time. We entered Veryan Bay for the first time and aimed for Dodman Point. Around 2pm the wind dropped totally so we decided to abandon our landing in Veryan Bay and sail straight to Dodman Point instead! Our lunch aboard was very relaxed, sails idly slapping. The girls all read their books.
The wind gradually increased and I secretly decided to sail round Dodman Point to Vault Beach or Gorran Haven! Annoyingly the wind lightened again so this plan had to be abandoned ½ mile off Dodman Point! Mixed feelings all around. We jibed round and Christina took the helm for a little while. The wind backed again to north-west and soon we were sailing close-hauled. It steadily increased and we were faced by strong squalls so I took over. We spanked across Gerrans Bay on a close reach. St. Anthony’s Head (you can imagine the giggles this name causes every time!) appeared once again and we had to make one long leg across to the coast south off Pendennis Castle. Three more tacks and we were in the Percuil River! The tide was still contrary to the wind so we dropped the mainsail and ran the mooring down under jib alone. The evening was spent at The Roseland Inn, Philleigh which we know to be an excellent restaurant. Anna was disappointed that the rose ice cream had disappeared off the menu! Other than that it was an excellent meal.
One admission to make: before leaving the mooring on that day, and whilst making fast the tender, I got distracted and let her slip! Amongst words which I cannot repeat here we made haste for sea and quickly sailed to get her. Luckily there were no other yachts or boats in close proximity; she had drifted over slowly to a couple who caught her for us. Thank you once again if you read this!
Our last day – oh no! The majority of us decided to go to Gillan Creek again as the Helford River wasn’t ideal, the tide flooding until 5pm’ish. Looking out for our familiar landmark, the “axe”, Annalise took the helm competently and we arrived within ½ mile off the beach at Gillan. The wind had lessened under the headland and I took over to make the anchorage. The tide was right out so amongst rocks we rowed carefully ashore. After a lovely picnic, the girls explored the little caves and climbed rocks whilst I read, and Christina went off for one of her little walks. A lovely afternoon was had by all. Christina had an interesting encounter with a squirrel which had fallen “splat!” straight from one of the high trees! Amazingly it scampered off, having come down like a rock. What hardy little creatures!
The wind had got up now with a more easterly direction and the sea looked more squally so having read Daphne du Maurier we decided to pack up. One last look back and we were rowing back to Blue Swallow. Made ready, we backed the jib hard to the starboard side to sail off from the rocks. The anchor broke out well and soon we made good speed, heading out on starboard tack with force 3 – 4, gusting 5 occasionally. In the course of the sail home the wind lightened up a little but we made the Percuil River on one tack by eating up to wind at every gust! We reached the mooring, all sails up this time as airs light. Blue Swallow was made good roughtly this time as we were planning to bring her ashore later that day, making less work for our journey home tomorrow. St. Mawes Regatta had been on that day so Rosie and Annalise sauntered into the village to catch the last of it whilst Christina and I organised the road trailer. The tide was very high, convenient for getting Blue Swallow ashore, which we duly did a bit later. Having cleaned her out and safely tucked away in the boat yard, we met up with the girls at the B & B and went to the Sailing Club for supper – our last time and we were all a bit sad! After a lovely evening chatting to all the friends and acquaintances we had made it was back to Blue Swallow for Rosie, Christina and I had to put the sails away which had now dried nicely. Annalise was excused as she was very tired by then not surprisingly! The three of us walked back, also tired but happy that everything had gone so well.
Sunday morning arrived, our last breakfast and the dreaded packing of suitcases! A fond farewell was said to our hosts and we headed back to the Sailing Club Boatyard, getting Blue Swallow ready for the journey! Our tried and tested method of transporting the upturned tender on an old duvet worked well once again and everything else was made fast securely. Notes were made and a photograph taken so as to repeat this process next year hopefully! After a good and fairly uneventful drive (apart from the usual pit stops and tweaking of ropes, rags etc.) we reached Weymouth Sailing Club at about 5:30pm. Amazingly it was completely deserted and everything shut! That wouldn’t have been so bad if I hadn’t forgotten the key to open up the main door (which we had to do in order to reclaim our boat cover). Fortunately the padlock on the gate was not snibbed! There was absolutely no one around. The girls and I put the dinghy in its usual place whilst Christina skulked around, waiting for someone – anyone! – to enter the sailing club. She later admitted to feeling like a burglar, trying various doors in vain. Her persistence, however, paid off, she spotted a couple who had just come back from an outing and opened the entrance door for her. Minutes later she emerged with the boat cover. Hurray! We could get everything done now as another project awaited us the next day. An hour later we were home, tired again but full of the lovely Cornish air and much improved in our sailing.
Thank you St. Mawes for being such a wonderful destination once again and in particular to the Sailing Club for their hospitality. Special thanks go to Gawaine and Maria for use of the S. C. mooring and their kindness and support.
And the project I mentioned? Oh yes, we had one day’s break and then it was off to a week of wild camping in the Doone Valley in Exmoor! A completely different adventure awaited us…
Submitted on 4th September 2011