With the forecast predicting strong winds from the west on Saturday, and with a lighter, more variable wind in the northern sector for Sunday, it was time to consult the almanac for tidal streams and tide times. Anyone who has sailed east from Weymouth will know the two key areas are St Alban's Head and the Needle's Channel. In a regular cruising boat it is futile to fight the tide, but time it right and you get a free ride!
The theory is great, but 05:30 start is always a challenge for me! However after dropping the moorings and departing the harbour in the gloom I was soon cracking along at a good 6 knots. As it was still dark, and I was single handed, I opted for two reefs in the mainsail on the grounds that it is far easier to shake out a reef than be up on the fore-deck pulling one down!
It wasn't long before I was treated to a colourful sunrise. I always enjoy that feeling at the end of a night passage as the sun makes a reappearance. As the shelter afforded by the Portland Isle was lost, my decision for the second reef proved the right one as there was no shortage of speed and as the seas began to build in size, I was almost surfing down the big ones. The forecast for F5/6 (20 - 25 knots) was surprisingly close, although more of the upper strength was seen off St Alban's Head. When I say off St Alban's I meant about 3-4 nautical miles out having given the ledges a wide berth as the westerly winds would likely have caused rough water in that area.
Now on almost a dead run I managed a good few miles goose-winged, but with the moderate seas on the quarter it required too much attention to keep on course, so for an easy life I furled the foresail completely since if it wasn't on the opposite side to the main, it just banged around in its turbulence. No speed was lost and the fore-deck was much a quieter place! Still doing 6-7 knots under main with two reefs, the sun now shinning through the larger waves it was quite stunning sailing.
Earlier this year I made an investment in a half-decent tiller pilot to aid with single handed sailing. I affectionately named it Raymond after a great-uncle, but I expect you can guess the manufacturer. Whereas previously I would have probably hove-to, I was now able to leave the helm to Raymond and get down in the galley and make some breakfast.
Several cups of tea, and far too many toasted crumpets later, I was past St Alban's and on course for the Needle's Channel. The tide had been in my favour for about an hour on the approach, so was now giving a good boost to my speed over the ground. It doesn't always go to plan this well, but when it does, it is most satisfying. I'd hoped this leg would happen in four hours, but it only took three!
Arriving in the entrance to the Needle's Channel I could see the wild water on either side. With the tide in nearly full flood the seas on the Shingles Bank to port were breaking as they built up in the shallow water. Its at this point the channel seem much narrower than shown on the chart! However, in good visibility it is very well marked and with care presents no real problems. (Note, you wouldn't attempt this with wind against tide in these conditions!) As exciting as it was, with the boat sailing nearly flat out and a fast tide underneath her, the channel was soon passed, with the Iconic Hurst Castle left to port. (It was the first of October by the way.)
Just like that, the sea was calm! There was still plenty of push from the tide, and the wind still blew smartly over the low ground off Keyhaven, yet the sea was flat - completely smooth... needless to say I still made good speed. So much so that I decided to skip my planned trip into Keyhaven Lake, and headed on to Newtown River.
Last time I anchored in Newtown River was in the peak of the summer, and it was pretty crowded. This time I shared the whole River with only two other boats. A very peaceful late lunch followed... followed by a lazy evening and an early night to make up for the early morning.
I woke Sunday morning to pouring rain, yet by 10:00 the sun was out with a blue sky - amazing. As predicted the wind was very light, in fact virtually non existent. So as the tide was due to turn in my favour at about 15:30 I had a lazy morning, relaxing lunch, then pulled up the anchor and started motoring back down the Solent to catch the tide as it changed at Hurst.
A complete contrast to the day before. The sea was flat and calm. It could have been a different place altogether!
The breath of wind started to gently pick up such that I could motor-sail down the channel. In due course I was able to shut down the noisy old engine and I was sailing again. Possibly the tide was making the apparent wind more on the nose that I'd have liked, but it was sailing none the less. But sadly I had to make the decision to motor again as rough calculations showed that I'd never make St Alban's Head before to tide turned against me. As this was just a week-end jaunt and I had to be back at work on Monday, there was littler choice.
Never give up hope... as once out of the Needle's Channel, with a change of course and a slight shift in wind direction, I was able to sail again, close-hauled, and lay a course into Swanage Bay. The wind in the south-west, not northerly as forecast, and picking up to about F4, I was once again cracking along with no real waves to slow me down. This really was sailing at almost its best. Yet I think I only saw two other yachts the whole trip!
I entered Swanage Bay as the sun set behind the high ground, however there was a low half sized moon now sending orange moonlight across the water from the south... another sight not to be missed.
Despite needing to put in a few tacks to get to St Alban's, the tide was in my favour and just tucking into the edge of the small races that form off Peveril Point and Durlston Head, progress was still very efficient. I passed St Alban's Head, this time on the inner passage, at about 23:00 with the lights of Portland and Weymouth now in sight. Its amazing how much higher and nearer the cliffs seem at night. They have a menacing feel about them. Time to check and double check the navigation.
The wind was kind to me, and I arrived of Weymouth harbour on one long single tack at about 02:00. With the wind in the south-west the harbour was calm and peaceful (well it was till I fired up the little single cylinder diesel!), this always makes mooring up easier when you're by your self. I decided to stay on board and have a few hours sleep before driving directly to work.
Paul Burger, Winter's Maid (Van de Stadt Trintella 29)
Submitted on 12th October 2022