150 miles on starboard tack!

My first proper cruise this year involved a leg to Alderney with a westerly 3-4, sunny but chilly, with a brief stopover to meet up with old friend Richard, who drove me round the island, stopping off at Gannets Rock, a marvellous view of the Channel Islands and the Raz Blanchard. Then off to Cherbourg in a brisk southerly, which increased at Cap de la Hague and then progressively headed and died as I got nearer to Cherbourg - the perfection of an all-starboard cruise undermined by the need for a short port tack to get through the entrance at Fort de l'Ouest!

A few sunny days in Cherbourg (in a more or less empty marina)waiting for a wind provided the ideal opportunity to do some research into the history of Cherbourg, including going to the Bibliotheque Jacques Prevert, and walking out to the ruined Abbaye du Voeu beyond the Port Militaire. This time of year is also a great time to visit the Jardin Emmanuel Liais, only a few minutes from the marina (pictured).

A highlight of the trip was one of those customs inspections which can so easily lead these days to an automatic fine of 200 euros - boat owners make sure all the paperwork's on board before you leave, in particular an up-to-date MCA certificate. The inspection turned into a pleasant enough chat, but such an experience could be quite intimidating - they were, after all, armed. A curious follow-on from this was being overflown by a French helicopter on the way back, and then checked out by the customs launch over twenty miles north of Cherbourg! An English resident of Cherbourg told me that they target English boats, and that single-handed sailors seem to be particularly suspicious...

Having waited for the wind, the forecast 2-4 easterly continued the 'starboard' theme, though it proved to have more 2 than 4 in it, and with a very strong spring tide to contend with motorsailing was the order of the day. The Channel is always fairly empty at this time of year, though AIS in limited visibility is very reassuring. A gentle sail into the bay in the early evening reminded me how fortunate we are to have this area to sail in.

Steve Fraser

Submitted on 2nd May 2011